Sep 19th, 2017     2.5 hrs

I have been uber busy with school, work, and life lately. However, I know to get a project like this completed, you have to put in an hour or two everyday that you can scrape that kind of time together. 

Today I completed Page 9-7 step 3. During this step you match drill the skins with a #40 drill to the various ribs and supports. This process is time consuming because you are drilling every other hole then moving the clecos over a hole and drilling the non-drilled hole. Keeping track of what you have done and not done can get challenging. I have skipped lines of holes before and double drilled some. The latter is not that big of a deal...the former on the other hand, the rivets will not fit when I get ready to rivet the skin. 

I also had skipped the match drilling of the ribs to the spars accidently over the weekend. I completed all but the 2 root ribs on Sunday; however, the 2 root ribs were still covered with the control horns so I had to wait until disassembly before drilling these two and fixing this small mistake. 

I also was able to start the process of disassembly. I took off one complete skin from one side as well as a few pieces. I paid particular attention to getting the hang tags on each piece as it comes off to allow from proper assembly later. I learned this on the H-Stab. 

I got the VA-140 for the trailing edge countersunk with the #40 countersink to finish off the evening. 

 

Sep 20th, 2017     2 hrs

Page 9-7 steps 7 and 8 say to disassemble and deburr of all the parts of the elevators. I got the right side completely disassembled and tagged. Most all the parts are edge deburred as I installed them with the clecos to begin with. I am deburring the holes and flat surfaces as I am disassembling. I am trying this method to take a particular part, disassemble, deburr the holes, touch-up the edges if necessary, scuff and deburr the flat surfaces, then dimple. You lose some of the effectiveness of repetition; however, my brain is not dying from just scuffing and deburring for 8 hours straight. Additionally, I think this helps with keeping everything organized...we shall see.

Today I completed all of these steps on the rib halves as called for is page 9-10 step 3, both shear clips including the dimples called for in step 2 on page 9-10, and the rt root rib as called for on page 9-8 step 4. I also completed all the prep for the tip skin as well as the non-dimpled shear clip and the gusset.

So I missed the note about dimpling the cover plates and corresponding doubler plates for the number 6 screws. Future builders it is page 9-7 step 5. The little tiny sentence at the beginning. I felt a little stupid as I was trying to figure out why Vans did not want us to dimple the screw holes. I was about to ask the question on Vansairforce and thought I would search first only to discover people talking about it. So obviously it was there...I just had skipped it. Now I need to order a #6 screw dimple. It is a little larger than a #30 but smaller than a #21 so tomorrow I shall order while spending the day in the hotel for work.

 

Sep 24th, 2017     1hr

I have been feeling a little under the weather the last few days and missed out on some prime building time. It was beautiful out and warm. I know these warm days will not last much longer. I did get out to the shop for an hour and did a little work in. I was able to get the bluing strips removed on the external side of the right lower skin. I also deburred all the holes on both sides of the right lower skin.

 

Sep 25th, 2017     2hr

Today was mostly spent solving the problem of the static wicks. I needed to engineer their mounting system.  I mostly stole the idea from mouser again like before on the rudder.  The outboard static wick will use the tip rib for mounting and the inboard one will be 12 inches inboard from there.  The upper hole for the outboard is the same hole as the rivet hole.  I just needed too enlarge it to accept the #6 screw. I then located and drilled the two #40 rivet holes. For the lower screw hole, I needed to manufacturer a doubler plate with the requisite screw and rivet holes.  I basically did the same fire the inboard wick, I just was able to make one doubler plate that was large enough for both rivnuts. These were made with .025 aluminum.

 

Sep 26th, 2017     2hr

Today was another productive 2 hours.  I disassembled and marked all of the parts for the left elevator. I deburred and scuffed the top right elevator skin, the gusset braces, the shear clips, the root rib, and the access panel doubler for the left elevator. 

 

Sep 28th, 2017     3hr

 

Scuffing and deburring. Scuffing and deburring!!!! I do not think the karate kid has anything on me now! I feel like this is just like that. Wax on…wax off…now repeat. Today I was able to deburr all of the holes on all of the parts for the left elevator. Additionally, I got both spars and all of the components of the tip ribs scuffed. I had plans to get the remaining scuffing complete; however, my employer had other plans and I got called into work.